The year 2023 was relatively quiet in terms of cycling for me, yet it concluded with a fantastic tour that yielded at least one report and memorable impressions for my followers. Early in 2023, my cycling companions and I deliberated over potential tour locations. My suggestion of Sicily won out, leading us to arrange a gathering in Catania come October—a choice that, looking back, was excellent.
In ancient times, the island belonged to what historians call the “happy latitudes” of the Mediterranean region 2000 years ago. The climate was mild, fostering a bounty of agricultural produce. When Sicily’s grain could no longer sustain Rome’s population, which had swelled to 1 million inhabitants who received free bread, Rome had to seize new granaries, leading to the expansion into Egypt and the ensuing tale of Cleopatra.
The term “Island of the Gods” could be equated today with “Island of the Oligarchs” from that era, such as Cicero, Seneca, Catilina, Tacitus, Pompeius Magnus, and others, who amassed obscene wealth during the Roman Republic. They all had their residences on the island and lived an existence akin to that of the gods. The excavations at the historical site of Agrigento still impressively display this today.
We selected Catania, Sicily’s second-largest city, as our base due to its rail network connections, which enabled us to travel within a wider radius, dine out, and return by train or vice versa. Despite experiencing this numerous times, it never ceases to amaze me.
Prolog | Arrival in Catania
I arrived a day earlier than Chris and Neil, which gave me the chance to tour the city on my bike. Once again, I navigated the remarkable Italian traffic where the unspoken rule is to advance yet always leave room for others to merge, making it surprisingly easy to move through the city traffic.
Impressions
Here are a few impressions from my downtown walk around.
Fish Market and the Gastro Scene
Just beyond the charming fountain lies the hidden gem of a fish market, boasting an array of fish and seafood. On Saturday mornings, it becomes a bustling hub, attracting not just tourists. Nearby, a variety of restaurants cater to every taste. The piazza, canopied with vibrant umbrellas and surrounded by inviting alleys, is particularly delightful. Naturally, we often paused here to replenish our energy, and it was a delight each time.
Day 1 | Catania – Syracuse
The first exit from Catania led us immediately south towards Syracuse. The plan was to have dinner there and come back by train.
En route, we initially traversed a lengthy stretch on a busy main road, necessitating a tight formation and a heavier foot on the accelerator. Upon turning off towards Augusta, we encountered quieter, smaller roads. It was here we intended to take a coffee break, only to find it was an inopportune time when everything in Italy is typically closed.
Long ago, I assured my friends that in Italy, one does not starve, for there is always an open bar, pizzeria, or restaurant. However, they have since lost confidence. Yet, undeterred, I continued my search and discovered the perfect spot with a view over the Bay of Augusta, offering everything we desired.
Syracuse, established around 730 BC by Greek settlers, boasts a picturesque seafront where visitors relish the sunset from the comfort of restaurants and bars. As depicted in the background of this photograph, locals continue to enjoy beach outings and ocean swims well into October.
Day 2 | Taormina Giro
This morning, we took the train to Taormina to explore the historic city, with plans to cycle in the countryside later. However, the train station is by the sea, while the city sits at 250 meters and the upper part at 500 meters above sea level. Despite our guidebook indicating otherwise, my friends thought the theater was at the highest point. Consequently, we embarked on a steep climb only to find nothing there. Cyclists, though, are fond of mountain ascents for the views and other indescribable joys.
Despite this, Taormina was worth the visit. After completing the historical tour, we discussed the next trail, with the notable landmarks clearly visible from this vantage point.
The route from Taormina to Castiglione di Sicilia was laid out. Regrettably, my Garmin malfunctioned, missing some kilometers and elevation data. After restarting, it recorded the latter portion of the journey.
Day 3 | Etna
It was a day that tested my limits. Until now, I had conquered many high mountains on my bike, but this experience was unprecedented due to a severe water shortage.
The ride from Catania to Etna was a constant uphill battle, and by early morning, the temperature had already soared to 30 degrees in the sun. After the first hour, we stopped at a bar for coffee and water, discussed the route to the mountain, and set off. I had already consumed plenty of water at the cafe and topped up my bottles.
Once on the mountain, we split up to ride at our own pace, leaving me alone with my thoughts, the volcano, the sun, and the increasing heat. I soon realized my water wouldn’t last, so I kept an eye out for refill opportunities, but none appeared.
With gradients ranging from 7 to 12%, my strength began to wane, yet a sip of water would revive me, and I could continue. I knew I couldn’t complete the remaining 11 km and 900 meters of elevation without more water. Without it, I’d be forced to turn back.
As my water supply dwindled, I watched for cars or tourists to ask for help, and that’s what saved me. A car with a French license plate approached, and I gestured with my empty bottle. They stopped and gladly assisted. Further up, an Italian woman sold me honey and water. About 4 km from the summit, Italian tourists also generously offered me water.
Without this additional water, I wouldn’t have reached the summit and would’ve had to retreat. Chris and Neil had been waiting at the top for about 30 minutes, or so they claimed. I shared the tale of my water benefactors before we embarked on the lengthy descent.
In the evening, I looked worriedly at Neil, who seemed visibly affected, and it came out that he had no extra water. His dehydration should still have an effect the next day.
Ultimately, I found myself on Mount Etna. It wasn’t as spectacular as expected; the volcano’s peak is another 1500 meters higher. Yet, I’ve never drunk as much water in a single day as I did then.
Day 4 | Syracuse – Noto – Syracuse
Syracuse, renowned for its beauty in Sicily, captivated my friends who were eager to visit Noto as well. Reconstructed in the Baroque style following an earthquake, similar to Ragusa, Noto is now a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Our itinerary included a coastal ride to Noto, then circling back inland to Syracuse for additional sightseeing and dinner, since Chris and Neil were also fond of Syracuse.
Impressions Noto
Indeed, Sicily’s terrain is far from flat, resulting in a ride from Noto to Syracuse that was a continuous series of ascents and descents. Initially, we navigated major roads bustling with traffic, but then Neil discovered a detour that led us to an elevation of 700 meters, followed by a remarkable descent on fresh pavement down to Floridia. Subsequently, we formed a group and sped through the final 20 kilometers to Syracuse at speeds exceeding 40 km/h.
Impressions Syracuse
Day 5 | Catania Giro
Recovery was necessary after the heat day at the Etna and the sprints to Syracuse, so today I only did a recovery ride, left the group a little early and treated myself to a substantial lunch in town.
Day 6 | Farewell tour along the coast line
On my last day, with a plane to catch at 5pm, we were once again on the road, driving up the coast through quaint villages and seaside resorts. Surprisingly, there were still locals enjoying the beach and the ocean. Our farewells were exchanged at the Fumefreddo train station, where Neil and Chris continued their journey, and I took the train back to Catania. There, I packed my belongings at the hotel before heading to the airport. Even this brief journey was a delightful conclusion to an extraordinary week.
Impressions
Bottom Line – A week in Catania
Indeed, Sicily in October is delightful, with its mild weather, fewer tourists, and laid-back locals. For those who wish to swim, there are lovely beaches both within and outside cities like Syracuse, where the sea remains pleasantly warm. Additionally, the exquisite cuisine is not to be missed. The cities exude a rare romantic charm, and the evenings are filled with the vibrant and joyous spirit of Italy. Catania, in particular, was truly wonderful.
Catania at night
Via Filomena, situated close to the theater, is renowned as the street brimming with bars and restaurants where locals converge in the evenings. The lower section is popular for socializing over drinks, whereas the upper part boasts a succession of unique and outstanding restaurants. This place truly offers something for every desire, leaving no room for regret over time spent here.
In response to Natalie’s inquiry about whether I have finished exploring Sicily, certainly not; I still have to visit the northern coast from Palermo to Capo di Orlando, and undoubtedly much more.